End Grain Wood Flooring

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end grain wood flooring

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What I love about running this blog is that I learn something new just about every day. This post is the latest example.

I saw the above image of wood flooring ideas and was totally stumped about what this style of wood floors was even called. After some digging I finally got the answer… it’s called “end grain” flooring. I love this non-traditional design so much!

Here’s a good 3 part tutorial for you DIYers.

I also found another great blog post that describes the process and links to several good resources. If you want to know more about this type of floor, head on over to the link here…

ModRemod – End Grain Flooring

Image Credit: Creative Ideas

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27 COMMENTS

  1. I’m building my ‘hovel in the hills’ and am going to use as much blue (beetle-kill) pine as I can. I guess it’s some kind of revenge on my part but I think it makes a beautiful floor. I did my bedroom floor and love it. End grain? With blue pine? Sounds super! How would you hold it together?

  2. love this floor. i have my own woods to weed out. i just need the information to hold the pieces together.

  3. To hold them together you take the dust made from cutting them and mix with elmers wood glue and water to make a grout. You can add stain to color the grout. Elmers is water soluble so after filling the gaps wipe with a wet sponge to remove access.

  4. i have lots of tree trunks to come down never thought of using them like that i will be useing them for a new kitchen floor instead of stepping stones

  5. Not a flooring guy, but I am an experienced stain and finishing gut. I agree with the grout made of sawdust and wood glue, but a better idea might be a pre-stained grout such as Polyblend. This will last you a lot longer and give more flexibility with inevitable shifting and settling. Before grouting though, I would stain the log ends, allow 48 hours to cure, then put a good healthy coat of spar varnish (Cabot is a great brand, also can’t beat Sikkens, but it’s expensive). Give that a good healthy amount of air circulation and plenty of time to cure. Then go ahead with the grout. Those big gaps are going to take up copious amounts of grout, so be prepared to buy a ton of it. Also, expect some shrinking which will mean another application of grout after it cures, but make sure it’s cured out per the instructions on the grout. If you walk on it too soon, you’ll be in for a monster mess.

  6. my local library has an entryway that is paved in 2 x 4 ends. it’s really cool looking. the pieces are fitted close together and I don’t recall any grout. There is a clear finish on it.

  7. I totally love this flooring and would love to do this in my house. Could someone give me a detailed directions, materials, and supplies so I can get started right away. Thank you.

  8. There is also an alternative : the “Pav├ęs de Paris” is a board made of 27 End grain woodblocks (comes with a guarantee of 15 years)very easy to install.

  9. That looks like a wood grout between the pieces and a thick polyurethane covering on top to.make it shinny, smooth and preserved.

  10. In northern Wisconsin, in Door County, something similar to this was used to build the walls of homes. I believe they would fill in with concrete. The walls were not painted – - you’d just see the wood in the concrete! The walls would be 8-12″ thick and would be super warm for those cold Wisconsin winters!

  11. I saw this on a PBS show, and I think it was Beorganic. She used all things around her farm to redo her kitchen. The floor was just like above and she did mention what goes between the wood. She also made a concrete counter top with crushed or broken glass pieces in it. Very good show, weekly. I hope I got the name right. Try beorganic.com.

  12. these floors are done by cutting tree logs into 2inch thick you use pea stone as a base and you can also use the stone to fill the gaps. A 2 part urethane is used to mend everything together and give it its nice shine. Be careful these floors are very slippery when they are wet, but very beautiful when complete

  13. I thought of those stovewood homes right away, too. They were easier to build because the stovewood was lighter than logs, but drafty because of shrinkage. Shrinkage could be an issue with these beautiful floors, if not done properly.

  14. I love this idea, I saw a wall with 3 inch saplings and mortar like field stone. Some of the trunks were left longer say about 4 inches so you could hang pictures, coats, hats, ect. the rest were cut level at 2. It was a beautiful wall. I don’t know what the wood was cured with, I would use Velvet Oil. Maybe someday it will be a basement wall in the log cabin? as for now I need break from anything log or staining or log :D

  15. Would love to know in detail how to do these floors. went with stained concrete when we built the house two years ago but not as impressed as i am with these pics. thank you.

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